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Something strange has happened: mulled wine is back in fashion. The Hills’ recipe is as warming as a coveted spot by the wine bar’s fireplace in winter. But fuzzy feelings also come from the pizza: 48-hour fermented dough that’s cooked to a beautiful blistered chew.

There’s always margherita and pepperoni, but a special of burrata and anchovy with red sauce is a creamy, salty win. Anchovy stars again on the snacks menu – laid over fried bread with aioli – as does broccolini with walnut cream.

The long by-the-glass wine list will please most; unsurprising at a place sharing DNA with top-tier wine bars Clover and The Moon. Toast your toes by the fire and while waiting for some cheese, or maybe tiramisu, and certainly some more wine to finish. While you’re at it, toast your good sense in heading for The Hills, too.