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It’s been the pride of the town since the 1840s, sitting proudly on the banks of the Wannon River, four hours west of Melbourne.

When ex-MoVida head chef James Campbell returned to his hometown, he brought with him a modern take on Western District kitchen classics. Most of his dishes – from the great mutton tomahawk to chargrilled quail with boudin blanc – are sourced from local farms.

Some, like the sweet caramel pillows he calls ‘golden syrup dumplings’, are straight from his nana’s cookbook. Rub shoulders with local farmers in this 1860s pub, set against the clear waters of the Wannon River and the Grampians.