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Ever fantasised about owning a country bolthole? It might look like Tedesca, a cluster of weatherboard buildings gazing out over farmland, filled with cut flowers and time-marked antiques. That was Brigitte Hafner’s vision, too, manifested from a notebook she kept for years.

Here’s the biodynamic kitchen garden that underpins the day’s handwritten lunch menu. Here’s the monumental hearth on which most dishes are cooked. And here’s the cellar housing remarkable wines gathered from far and nearby co-owner James Broadway. Completing the fantasy, there are no decisions – other than what to drink.

A splodge of soft, milky Greek cheese with candied green figs and walnuts lands, then focaccia and a skewer of smoke-wreathed pork. Next comes silky tortellini dabbling in brown butter; later, a dish showcasing local fish. You may struggle to get a booking – persist. This is a dream worth chasing.