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It’s hard to ignore the sky, sea and sculpture just beyond the wraparound windows. Try as you might, that million-dollar view keeps pulling you back. But plenty is happening inside the light-soaked dining room, where even the cutlery is sculptural.

Arrive on a weekend and find the space filled with a flurry of multi generational families, international tourists and loved-up couples. Floor staff are experienced enough to keep everything on track. Using first-rate peninsula ingredients, the busy kitchen sends out a savoury take on Basque cheesecake using Main Ridge goat’s milk alongside foraged pine mushrooms.

Another satisfying entree brings together Flinders mussels and locally grown vegetables dabbling in a gently smoky curry. Mains steer a classic course – perhaps wood fired snapper napped by beurre blanc made from the estate’s sparkling wine. After tiramisu reprised as a mascarpone-filled choux bun, stroll around the sculpture park as nature intended.