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Everything feels easy at this luxe farmhouse-style pavilion. Staff are plentiful and never far away. On cold days the fire roars. And there’s no stressing about what to order – within minutes several intricate snacks arrive to kick off the set menu.

That’s when easy switches to artful. A halved cucumber, freshly picked from Polperro’s organic farm, wears dainty spots of smoked eel and lobster mousse. After a parade of skilfully executed small dishes, such as swordfish tartare with wasabi oil and flying fish roe, the main course could be tender duck breast, dry-aged for 14 days and glazed in plum vinegar.

You might head to the deck, overlooking vines and old gum trees, for a deconstructed dessert. With a glass of estate chardonnay in hand, it’s a fitting end to one of the more refined lunches in the country.