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The name might sound like an alarm but what comes from the kitchen at Jackalope Hotel’s flagship diner gets the balance of fun and flavour just right.

There’s tea-smoked chicken with Shaoxing wine jus, and flawless duck pâté en croute teamed with flashes of pickled rhubarb. Other dishes take their cues from both Asia and the West. A nigiri-like strip of just-seared kangaroo draped over a crunchy oblong of fried rice zips through Japan, Australia and China in just a couple of bites. Slivers of crisp cauliflower decorate a smooth and salty panna cotta with a whack of intense uni in the centre.

Powerful and clean-lined Willow Creek chardonnay (made on-site) is poured by the glass, and martinis are bracingly cold. Service, a little unpolished though unfailingly charming, fits perfectly with the country hotel setting.