The Broke Fordwich sub-region is a different beast from other parts of the Hunter. There are fewer wineries and therefore a corresponding level of quietude. And somehow the landscape seems more tousled, dominated by the looming Broken Back Range. Drink it all in from the terrace of Margan's rammed-earth dining room, as kitchen staff duck out to the garden to pick your salad. Husband-and-wife team Andrew and Lisa Margan make this a true marriage of food and wine, with each of Lisa's dishes partnered by one of Andrew's wines. So the 2011 verdelho meets a simple dish of buffalo mozzarella with olives, rocket pesto and walnuts; and a crisp semillon from the same year mixes it with the piquant piccalilli and capers strewn over yellowfin tuna. Aged release 2007 semillon proves a stunning match for roast duck and its earthy farro accompaniment. Desserts go it alone: a shimmering rectangle of chocolate delice needing only candied clementine and rum and raisin-infused creme fraiche.