Night and day pass unheeded and fluorescent lights beat down relentlessly on aquatic and land-based life forms alike at this bastion of Cantonese fare. Flapping-fresh seafood is prepared with the utmost care, the egalitarian atmosphere accommodates Chinese family groups and gweilo work parties alike, and the efficient staff are reliably brusque. Your veteran waiter may be as snappy as the claws on a mud crab, but it matters not when said crustacean arrives with a seeming oversupply of king claws, its sweet flesh bathed in the house XO sauce. Seafood is the obvious choice here - bring a group and invest in whole crabs and lobster, perch or live pipis from the tanks. With the rest of the menu, you can take it as adventurously (crunchy jellyfish salad or marinated duck chin, anyone?) or as safely (moreish Peking shredded beef with sweet vinegary sauce) as you like - satisfaction and sauce-covered tablecloth guaranteed.