Copo was one of the first doing what’s become the done thing: chefs switching from fine dining to smart casual. The kitchen smokes its own chicken and trout, preserves its own pickles, makes mascarpone from scratch and plucks herbs from a rooftop garden. The menu leans to Latino (South American-style baked beans with chorizo), perhaps a little Morocco (cumin-flavoured baked eggplant and eggs served in a pan topped with fresh dill) and classic comfort food (bubble and squeak, porridge with rhubarb and homemade toasted muesli). Amiable service and a bright fit-out are bonuses.