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At the end of a winding gravel road, past cows, farm gates and a rushing creek, you can find Nimbo Fork Lodge on the northern edge of Kosciuszko National Park.

It’s long been a popular destination for weekends of whisky by the fire, especially thanks to the Three Blue Ducks team bringing a local-first approach to the on-site restaurant.

Illustrations of Snowy River trout decorate the homey dining room, for instance, and the fish may well appear in a ceviche with charcoal crackers, or grilled whole with sauce vierge.

Servings are country-style generous, from a yakitori skewer of chook thigh glazed with lip-sticking tare, to a juicy wild rabbit and chicken rolled roast (terrific with a nero d’Avola made from Gundagai grapes), to a charred scotch fillet that could almost be shared among three.

You don’t have to be a lodge guest to dine either – super spongy lamington sandwiches for all.