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Union Bank has versatility baked in. Sit back and lean into a long session at this former bank’s sun-drenched courtyard, drop in for an express lunch, or take a seat inside for something cosier.

Whatever your route, chef Dom Aboud isn’t afraid of pushing boundaries. Whole barramundi is butterflied, finished over the grill, topped with bouncy bites of prawn and left swimming in a buttery, fermented chilli sauce that cries out for a side of Sugar Mill ciabatta. Cured kingfish is equally bold, the flesh drizzled with a mild green curry sauce under a mountain of punchy spring onion.

Stracciatella matched with white anchovy and pickled zucchini takes you on a Mediterranean detour, but Farmer Doug’s potato scallop – the freshest you’ll ever try, and available with creme fraiche and caviar – firmly grounds you in the Central West, just in case the 165-year-old building hadn’t already.