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The menu at Temasak hasn’t changed much since it opened in 1992. Laksa Singapura is still speckled with fluorescent chilli oil, and still genuinely thrilling, chockers with chicken and prawn and slithery with noodles.

People travel miles for the curry puffs, nasi goreng, char kwai teow and Hainan chicken rice, with just-cooked, skin-on, lightly jellied meat (pay extra for thigh) served with glossy rice, broth, chilli and soy sauces. They nod slowly as they eat, as if listening to an old friend.

Nor have the rules changed, with no split bills, no soft drinks from outside and BYO wine only, with plastic containers available for you to pack leftovers.