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A restaurant experience is the sum of its parts. And Bentley’s parts are quite something: from every angle of the overhead metallic mobile through to spot-lit tables, visually immaculate snacks and perfect petits fours (oh, that four-times chocolate-dipped honeycomb bar). Fine flavours, textures, ingredients, service and eclectic wine pours (thanks, Nick Hildebrandt) put a bow on it.

Chefs Brent Savage and Aiden Stevens are kings of creative combinations, from the black-ink, golden-caviar sheen of a smoky eel cream spooned onto spongey black brioche, to an ethereal tofu-filled calamari roll overlaid with translucent cucumber discs. A gleaming white Murray cod steak sits spectacularly in a dark king oyster mushroom broth, ice-plant leaves the only ornament.

Then there’s the house rye (with coffee husks), the French steak knives, those sommelier-led wine matches – when you’re doing the fine-dining thing, this is where to do it right.