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Sydneysiders have been enjoying a full-scale pizza renaissance in recent years and some say it all started here.

In fact, demand for these handsome, leopard spotted specimens has prompted the opening of a takeaway site around the corner, returning some ambience to the King Street flagship since the to-go queues’ relocation.

Everyone’s favourite briny bechamel-based clam and pecorino pie still takes out top gong, but stars align when flawless mortadella (courtesy of owner-chef Luke Powell’s LP’s Quality Meats) is draped over a bianco base. It’s so luscious it feels texturally immoral. A scattering of green olive partly offsets the guilt, as does a leaf salad with warmth from palm sugar vinaigrette.

There’s only a little more to the menu than pizza, but it hits hard: house-stretched Jersey milk stracciatella, say, or smoky bonito crudo with capers and pistachio.

A modern Newtown classic.