Ascot Vale locals have been keeping this discovery in the vault. Just over one year old, Union Food & Wine occupies a grand former bank building along the suburb's shopping strip. "Allegedly, there is a safe which is buried deep beneath us. We haven't got down there yet," says owner-chef Stuart McVeigh. 

Boasting a five-star fine dining, Michelin star-studded CV, McVeigh is now doing his own thing. His bistro has built a loyal following, named runner-up for the Local Hero award in this year's The Age Good Food Guide. "We're so proud, so happy. We couldn't have asked for anything better in our first year of opening.

"The good thing is we have people coming in for breakfast and then in for dinner, and back in the next day for a spot of lunch or some charcuterie," McVeigh says.

It's a union of food and coffee on weekends, with a short breakfast edit of toasties, classics and cheffy specials.

The corned beef and creamed leek toastie ($12) is influenced by McVeigh's nan's boiled ham and mustard sandwiches from his childhood in Essex. The pan-fried golden toastie is accompanied by a miniature pot of hot English mustard. McVeigh describes the combo as "comforting and tasty - I think it's a great start to the day".

Tired of pulled pork? How about pulled duck? A confit duck leg hash special ($16) is rich and lush. Slow-cooked in duck fat overnight, the meat is pulled apart and shaped into a puck, ringed with thrice-cooked potato pieces, and a fried duck egg slid on top. Garlicky salsa verde and snowpea tendrils help cut through the richness. 

Turkish baked eggs ($15) are flavour-packed, thanks to a sprinkling of chunky hazelnut dukkah. Swirl through the creamy labna (hung in-house) and mop up the mildly-spiced tomato-based sauce with smoky charred sourdough. 

Gingerbread hotcakes ($14) have a gentle heat, served with firm chunks of quince. Poached in red wine and spices, the preserved fruit has a mulled wine quality. Pomegranate seeds and a dollop of ricotta flecked with orange and lemon zest add freshness. The Christmassy quince will soon make way for a summery spin - perhaps orange or blueberries with sour cream. 

The building's bones have been brightened up with a bold teal feature wall, comfortable mid-century style seating, pendant lights and a glossy marble counter. With its grand surrounds and smart food, Union Food & Wine is a happy union indeed.