The Brown family's Epicurean Centre is now divided into a restaurant, open to the garden, and an equally open, more casual area (Epi-curious) for all-day snacks. Either way, the food will be lively, and a fine showcase for the wines. In the restaurant, named for the late matriarch Patricia Brown, entrees and mains are matched with wine tastings (upgrade to a full glass for $4). Dishes are often complex, as in a starter of salt-cod-filled zucchini flower on a bed of zucchini caponata, with cured ocean trout, baby zucchini, candied tomatoes, and samphire, controlled by the chef's sense of flavour balance and the accompanying riesling. The sweetness of chicken-and-prune ballotine with white carrots, pistachio crumble and purple carrot puree is lifted by the tannins of a tempranillo-graciano blend. Choose your own wine for the small dessert range. maple syrup bavarois with pistachio pain perdu, anyone? Menus vary seasonally; the professionalism of the waiters is a constant.