The queue starts early outside Ocha and within minutes of the 6pm kick-off the place is humming. The interior is like a display apartment, the staff are friendly if not all 'career waiters' and the devoted regulars barely glance at the menu. By 7.45pm there's a frantic rush to do it all again for the more relaxed second sitting. Why so popular? For a start, there's the Ocha go-to of prawn dumplings, crusted in rice flakes and served with green-tea salt. Then, the crunchy calamari legs with garlic and chilli and the popular beef with a wasabi mash gratin. The signature antipasto showcases the kitchen's most finessed work, maybe a wonderfully delicate poached quail egg, a perfectly assembled shiitake with prawn or a deeply subtle snapper consomme. Sashimi salad has a spicy chilli-miso dressing, a little bit Korean, and the tatsuta-age is perfectly fried. Some very un-Japanese and very engaging desserts might include doughnuts with green tea and white-chocolate dipping sauce.