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The food here plays a delicious game of hide and seek in your mouth. Ah, there’s a shimmer of green chilli peeking over the top of a vegetarian soondae croquette. A pork cutlet has all kinds of complexity from a ssamjang marinade, but it’s the trotter jus that jumps out and yells “surprise”.

And how do the mushrooms on the tteokbokki – Korea’s fat, fabulous rice cakes – have so much flavour? Probably because there’s five varieties of ’shroom, from porcini to shimeji, and chef Daero Lee has pickled half of them to enhance texture and taste.

The restaurant recently relocated to a new home – larger, framed in dark marble – near Wynyard Station, and all that floor space means the staff also seem to be playing hide and seek sometimes. But there’s still so much to love about Soul’s warmth and flavours, and we’re big fans of the globetrotting natural wine list, too.