Straddling more than one street frontage, this converted auction house is busy and cavernous – a combination that could easily push the boundaries for those less inclined to a cacophonous room in which to dine. But with some clever sectioning into a series of neat nooks, and a tonal, terracotta-tinged fitout, the room is pleasantly subdued.

Mediterranean influence runs deep in a menu that includes velvety whipped cod roe – pair it with pillowy potato bread – and a couple of chopped, garlicky Skull Island prawns atop a buttery twist of spaghettini.

Hits from the grill include a tender octopus tentacle with seared corn and wilted chicory, and a subtly scorched charcoal chook with a fiery lick of harissa. A tangy passionfruit brulee cracks and yields in all the right ways, proving that a good thing, in the right hands, never gets old at Young’s.