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Among wheatfields, an elm-lined driveway reveals a storybook castle framed by symmetrical box gardens. But what’s on your plate at All Saints winery’s flagship restaurant isn’t so straightforward.

Pared-back menu descriptions only double the delight of an entree that’s a contender for best-ever mashed potato and gravy, smooth and crowned by chicken crackling. Zucchini arrives draped in a buttery velvet cape of just-cured tuna, and a single octopus tentacle is coiled inside a moat of ’nduja-licked crayfish veloute. Brined and grilled pork chop slick with brown butter is a confident and unadorned contrast.

Soft curtains, blondwood tables and linen napkins bring Scandi refinement to the duck pond, vineyards and mature trees visible through the windows. Kinship between the estate’s wines and dishes goes beyond pairings: a craquelin-topped choux puff brims with choc-hazelnut mousse warmed by muscat – clever.