In this elegant, light-filled dining room with its pressed-metal ceiling and columns, you could be hobnobbing it in London or New York. But, hey, you’re in Sydney. And, pardon the cringe, but dining at est. is a world-class experience. Every exquisitely presented dish – while a little more safe than envelope-pushing – is served with a dizzying yet dazzling array of artfully chosen, well-balanced ingredients. Cases in point: fleshy Moreton Bay bug, prawn, clams, squid, fregola, jamon and peas followed by lamb rib-eye – a deep pink marvel served with cumin seed spinach, tahini, chickpea shoots, panisse and lemon. Superb, too, is a plump quail breast with truffle and open ravioli and an egg yolk with which to mush it all up. Lofty standards include warm and efficient service, and desserts such as a delightful feuillantine of raspberries and ‘creme brulee’ raspberry ice-cream.

And … Ask about fixed-price menus at lunch.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Refined and exclusive.
Best bit The food and the room.
Worst bit The need to return to the office.