Fine dining can be fun. est proves this effortlessly with exquisite food, waiters who immediately put you at ease, and sommeliers who take all the guesswork out of wine-speak. Peter Doyle and Alex Woolley capture Australian cuisine in a bucket-list coral trout fillet, delicately strung with shavings of abalone and black fungi, and bathed in a Cantonese-inspired consomme. They continue with curls of iberico jamon and plump mozzarella bites punctuated with juicy figs, sparkling pomegranate seeds and aromatic mint. Sumptuous suckling pork comes with a lacquered crackling lid and a surprising, lively Japanese rice wine broth, and a side of mash is a star in its own right. Produce comes to the fore in a tongue-tingling passionfruit souffle and a soft-centred chocolate delice with a gleaming alpine strawberry, a scatter of blueberries and pearl whey. This is elegant dining for all the senses, in a handsome heritage dining room that throws a flattering light on all comers.