The gorgeous Hawkesbury riverside setting has long been front of mind for visitors to this former boatshed, but the slow reveal while driving down through the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park shouldn’t be overlooked - unless you arrive by seaplane or ferry. Whatever your preferred means of transportation, it’s really all about the food. Despite double-clothed tables and refined kitchen technique, the mood is holiday relaxed. Roast scampi are firm and sweet with radish salad, sweet pickled ginger and avocado. Translucent gruyere-filled tortellini wallow in an earthy mushroom consomme and we’re thrilled the new French chef has placed grilled onglet (hanger steak) on the menu - a flavoursome cut well matched with gutsy tomato confit and smoked eel. Honeycomb chunks crown almond milk ice-cream and berry salad to round off your riverside mini-break.

And … Kookaburras wait patiently to be fed by staff.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Relaxed and well-heeled.
Best bit The gorgeous location.
Worst bit Tearing yourself away.