Depending on how much of an entrance you like to make, you can arrive at this glorious waterside location by seaplane, ferry, water taxi or private boat. Otherwise, simply enjoy the drive through the postcard-pretty Ku-ring-gai Chase. But if getting here is fun, being here, in this tastefully renovated boathouse with its eager-to-please staff and wonderful water views, is no hardship either. Kick off with a big-hearted cauliflower, pea and Woodside chevre tart with asparagus and a rich soubise, or perhaps start on a lighter note with a smoked trout and blue swimmer crab mimosa. For mains, wild saltwater barramundi is matched with mussels, fennel and a subtle saffron broth. Tasmanian Atlantic salmon is well-cooked, but there was little evidence of its 10-year master-stock poaching liquid. However, a spicy eggplant pickle adds oomph. A rich assiette of chocolate with burnt honey creme, champagne foam and beetroot glaze caps things off in style.