Ideally you want a table here when Rose Bay’s sparkle outshines that of the clientele’s jewellery. But if the weather’s a bit ordinary, knocking back oysters with a cranky harbour and battering rain is a perfectly fine way to pass the time. The yacht-clubby room could do with a jolt of modernity but there’s much to like about this stalwart of the east. The service team, for one, is among the most attentive around. Seared scallops with chopped chorizo and cuttlefish is sweet and full of texture while a toothfish sous-vide with tomato consomme is full of crystal clear tastes. At the redder end of the scale, a beef tenderloin with bone marrow butter and potato gratin hits all the right umami notes. A wordy dessert list can be difficult to navigate: in the end, a lemon tart with mascarpone confirms that the simplest things are often the best.

And … Respect to the Le Thiers steak knives.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Sportscraft stiffness that loosens after a couple of gins.
Best bit The harbour view. 
Worst bit Paying for that view in the bill.