Weekend baking project: Emelia Jackson’s eclairs (and the secret to her MasterChef-famous choux pastry)
I am a big fan of choux pastry, and especially, eclairs. An eclair was the first dish I cooked on MasterChef Back to Win and it is the pastry I hunt for when travelling (five eclairs a day if in France? A must). There is just something so magical about the transformation of choux in the oven: from a paste-like dough to a puffed-up, glorious vessel ready to be filled with whatever your heart desires.
Eclairs are best eaten on the day they are filled as the pastry tends to go soggy over time. I like to make each element ahead and fill them just before serving.
The vanilla pastry cream and glaze can be made up to a week ahead and stored in the fridge. You can make the eclairs ahead, too, and store them in the freezer (baked, cooled and unfilled) for up to two weeks. Simply pull them out of the freezer 20 minutes before filling and decorating. This will ensure they retain their fresh-from-the-oven crunch!
Technique of the month: Choux pastry
To the novice baker, choux pastry may appear quite intimidating, but it is actually a simple pastry to make. Choux, or pâte à choux, is a pastry used for many of our favourite treats: cream puffs, eclairs, Paris-Brest, choux au craquelin, croquembouche and crullers. The dough’s high water content converts to steam in the oven, causing the pastry to rise and expand without the need for raising agents such as baking powder.
Ingredients
Choux pastry
225g water
100g unsalted butter
5g caster sugar
5g salt
160g plain flour
265g whole eggs (about 5 large eggs)
cooking spray
Vanilla pastry cream
500g full-cream milk
100g thickened cream
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
130g caster sugar
100g egg yolks (about 6 yolks)
65g cornflour
110g unsalted butter
Chocolate glaze
200g dark chocolate
120g thickened cream
20g honey
Method
to make the choux pastry
Step 1
To make the dough, combine the water, butter, sugar and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a rapid boil before adding the plain flour. Cook this roux for 3-4 minutes or until a thick crust forms at the base of the saucepan – this ensures the flour is well hydrated and you achieve the most consistent results.
Step 2
Transfer the hot roux to the bowl of a stand mixer and using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speed until all of the steam dissipates – this helps to evaporate off any excess moisture that could weigh down the choux, leaving you with the lightest possible pastry.
Step 3
Once the steam has completely disappeared, start adding the eggs, a little bit at a time, and mix until the dough comes together to a silky, shiny batter. The dough should be firm enough to hold its shape, falling off your scraper when you lift it out of the bowl.
To pipe the eclairs
Step 1
Preheat oven to 160C conventional (or 140C fan-forced if baking more than 1 tray at a time). If you want to bake multiple trays at the same time, you must bake using the fan-forced option to get the most consistent heat and avoid the choux deflating. If cooking one tray at a time, I’ve found best results when using the conventional setting and baking on the top rack of the oven.
Step 2
Line a baking tray with a perforated silicone baking mat for best results. If you don’t have one, use baking paper.
Step 3
Fit the star tip to the piping bag and fill the bag with the choux dough. Pipe each eclair about 10cm long, leaving ample space between them so they can spread and rise. Every bump in the pastry will show tenfold when baked, so make sure they are as straight as possible. If you make a mistake, scrape it up, put the dough back in the bag and start again.
Step 4
Liberally spray the eclairs with cooking spray oil before baking. The oil keeps the pastry moist in the oven, ensuring they rise more evenly.
Step 5
Bake for 60-75 minutes or until a deep golden brown. Remove the eclairs from the oven and allow them to cool for 30 minutes at room temperature before filling and decorating.
To make the pastry creme
Step 1
Combine the milk, cream and vanilla bean paste into a saucepan over low to medium heat and bring to the simmer. Meanwhile, whisk together the sugar, yolks and cornflour in a large mixing bowl until well combined. Once the milk is simmering, remove from the heat and slowly pour it over the egg mixture, whisking constantly so the yolks don’t scramble.
Step 2
Return the custard to the saucepan and bring to the boil, whisking constantly. Continue to boil for 1-2 minutes or until the cornflour has cooked out and the custard is thick.
Step 3
Remove from the heat and transfer the custard to a bowl. Once it has cooled slightly, add the butter, using a stick blender to mix.
Step 4
Cover the pastry cream with cling film touching the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Chill completely for at least four hours or better yet, overnight.
to make the glaze
Combine all the ingredients in a microwave-safe bowl (I like to melt the chocolate in a container that is as long as the eclairs) and microwave in 1-minute intervals or until the chocolate has completely melted.
To assemble the eclairs
Step 1
Poke a small hole at either end of the eclair’s base. Transfer the vanilla pastry cream to a piping bag and cut about 5mm from the bottom to create a small opening. Pipe the cream into the eclair using the two holes you’ve made – this will ensure it is filled with that luscious cream. Repeat for the remaining eclairs.
Step 2
Once you’ve filled all of them, you’re ready to dip! The chocolate glaze is best used when lukewarm, about 30C-35C. If you don’t have a thermometer, dip a finger into the glaze to test the temperature. It should have a similar consistency to thickened cream and not feel warm to the touch. Dip the top of each eclair into the glaze and hold it upside down for up to 1 minute so the excess glaze runs off. Place it on a wire rack to allow the glaze to set. Repeat this process until all the eclairs are glazed. If any of the glaze runs down the side of the eclair, wipe it away with a clean finger.
Step 3
Allow the glaze to set for 15-30 minutes before serving. For a true Parisian experience, garnish with a touch of gold leaf (optional).
Tips
- To pipe the perfect eclair, use a French star tip such as the Wilton 8B. The tip should be about 1.5-2cm wide with lots of corrugations. The corrugations will allow the choux pastry to expand more evenly when cooking. You can find these French star nozzles at most kitchen equipment stores, or online.
- Be sure to cook out the dough in the saucepan enough before adding the eggs. This step is going to really hydrate the pastry and ensure you get the best rise in your eclairs. The aim? To create a thick crust on the base of your saucepan. If you are using a non-stick pan, aim to cook the dough for 3-4 minutes.
- Beating the steam out of the choux dough before you add the eggs ensures that your pastry won’t be water-logged and will reduce the risk of collapse in the oven.
- Don’t open the door to the oven before the 30-minute mark – if they are undercooked and the steam and heat escapes from the oven, the choux will collapse.
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