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Trust us, you and your fellow diners will fight over the last of the crustacean butter after you’ve demolished your perfectly al dente tagliatelle with Moreton Bay bugs: it’s luxurious, rich and you won’t be able to stop, especially if you’ve got some olive oil brioche on hand.

That bread is also handy for the opulent kombu sauce pooling roast chicken with crab mousse tucked under the skin. (Odds are the Cardiac Society has a dartboard with chef Phil Wood’s face on it.)

Elsewhere, a tomato martini is a delightfully savoury starter before a dive into the extensive, far-reaching cellar, while the clever one-bite roe and egg “sandwich” is a must for snacking.

Captivating, right down to the ochre-coloured walls, Maison Balzac glassware and golden-syrup dumplings with malt cream – a favourite dessert since day one.