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Take a seat at The Rover and you’re doing it at one of Sydney’s cosiest cocktail bars and bistros. But where to sit? Pull up at the handsome ground-level bar at Happy Hour, and it’ll be for two-dollar oysters (two dollars!) to pair with a prosecco-topped Venetian Spritz, or reserve a spot in the upstairs dining room to go all in on the seafood-championing menu.

Here, soft lighting, exposed brick and ambient music play backdrop to the likes of glazed crumpets with eel pâté and horseradish jelly, a smoky sensation that simply has to be followed by fisherman’s pie, featuring flakes of smoked trout, crisp-fried capers and a cheesy potato gratin topping.

It’s not all seafood: pork neck with salsa verde and kohlrabi hits hard in the flavour stakes, while the Gidley burger (imported from The Rover’s sister steakhouse) is all heft and comfort. Don’t forget to check the after-dinner drinks list, either – it’s a doozy.