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For a long time, harbourside dining was less about food and more about watching ferry lights sparkle across the water. Now, of course, there are dazzling plates too, from Opera House star Bennelong through to (too often forgotten) Pyrmont.

One bay over from the tasting menu at LuMi, you’ll find seafood focused Sala, and from aperitivo to amaro it’s a top-shelf experience that rarely skimps on produce. Pumpkin flower fritters perch on a rich tomato salsa, seasoned with ice-plant leaves, while diced green tomatoes and cucumber add tang to squeaky-fresh kingfish crudo. Agnolotti are fat little pasta packs of yellowfin tuna, and full of corn-based sweetness.

Whatever fish dish you fancy (Murray cod, pink snapper, John dory) delivers a clever butter-acid contrast. Buffalo ricotta cheesecake with a thick pistachio topping wraps a meal with magic views corn-based sweetness. Whatever fish dish you fancy (Murray cod, pink snapper, John dory) delivers a clever butter-acid contrast. Buffalo ricotta cheesecake with a thick pistachio topping wraps a meal with magic views and old-school Italian service.