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Named after once-convict James Ruse, this stylish all-weather spot at the multibillion-dollar Parramatta Square welcomes all comers with an upmarket restaurant on one side and casual burger bar on the other (families are properly catered for with excellent children’s options, too).

Natural, golden tones, sizzling grills and a handsome seafood display add a theatrical touch, while chef Jay Rao brings fine-dining experience from Bert’s in Newport.

His fire-driven menu stars a beautifully cooked Southern Ranges scotch fillet, alongside larger meats to share and wood-fired poultry. Bite-sized tuna tartare tarts are the pick of the small dishes; king prawns are charred and meaty; bass grouper is cooked over charcoal until the skin glistens and tastes almost like pork crackling.

Desserts keep things pretty and light, including a multi-textured fresh pineapple, lime, coconut and yoghurt creation that adds a tropical note to the otherwise smoky proceedings.