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It would be so easy for Ormeggio to present itself as an Amalfi cliche of yellow striped awnings, neon spritzes and pasta standards, and allow its gleaming water views to do the rest. But nothing about Alessandro and Anna Pavoni’s flagship restaurant is predictable.

A luxuriously textured baccala entree is served tableside along with a detailed northern Italian origin story and a surprise dusting of cocoa, Sichuan pepper and juniper.

Delicate bottoni, or “little buttons”, of carbonara-filled pasta are studded with tiny gems of caviar, swordfish pancetta and glossy drops of lemon-infused oil so they sparkle like Sicilian cassata.

What is guaranteed at any visit is an unwavering focus on quality – the San Marzano tomatoes in arrabiata sauce, the Modena DOP balsamic in the fior di latte gelato, and the exceptional wine list and service – making it all the more special, a la carte or set menu, lunch or dinner.