Despite its lofty-sounding name, the latest Greek restaurant from The Apollo Group celebrates hearty, humble village fare.

Former Baba’s Place chef Ozge Kalvo’s menu is built around produce, legumes and grains, and more modest cuts of meat. Zucchini is fried into crispy discs or humbly stuffed with rice and yoghurt. Lamb brains are deep-fried into soft-centred nuggets, served simply with a cheek of lemon and bottle of hot sauce. Greek lamb is the main event, with options for shoulder and leg, which can be bulked out with hand-cut chips and a wild herb-topped village salad.

Greek architecture is showcased in the light-filled dining room, which centres around a retractable oculus ceiling — an ode to the ancient amphitheatre — surrounded by purple bougainvillea.