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Decked out with greenery, muted pastels and candlelight, Nour (“light” in Arabic) gleams with a radiance befitting its moniker.

Yet despite the serene setting, this Crown Street favourite is all action: a theatre of chefs led by Ibrahim Kasif, waiters working the room with care and attention, and tradition-spinning Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine extending far beyond the better-known go tos.

So while there’s shawarma, tabbouleh and kofta, each has something else to say. Pressed lamb neck riffs on the iskender, for instance, cooked overnight on the bone and lavished in a sharp tomato sauce, yoghurt and burnt butter; juicy dry-aged duck is marinated in baharat spice and sticky with a dark, blood orange reduction.

And only fools skip dessert. A take on coconut basbousa marrying fluffy semolina with fenugreek-infused custard –caramelised and doused in sweet syrup – will leave you glowing.