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Something interesting is cooking at Jane. When this snug, 1970s-toned restaurant opened in 2021, the hook was Australiana with an undercurrent of nan’s cooking. Under new chef Beth Patterson, however, the proposition is less kitsch and more confident. It’s simply very good food.

Alongside executive chef Tristan Rosier (who also oversees Arthur, two blocks down the road), Patterson has dialled up the flavour. A barely set tangle of squid ribbons holds many textures at once, dotted with pops of sweet pea and a whisper of horseradish.

Whole John dory lolls in a bold bath of roast-chicken cream that may have you asking for another dinner roll, and the spice of saltbush sambal shoots lamb dumplings into orbit. The dinky-di vibe hasn’t disappeared entirely – the generous “Australiano” happy hour remains – but Jane has got a grand new groove.