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The State Theatre isn’t the only place to see a show on Market Street. Next door, just above those Broadway bulbs, you can catch a different kind of theatre, where caesar salads are tossed at the table and one-kilogram rib-eye steaks are carved from specialty carts.

Behind the scenes, head chef Daniel Rudolph (formerly of Est. and Berowra Waters Inn) and his team work seamlessly to pull off the spectacle, rotating puffy pizzettas in the dual wood-fired ovens and stacking whisper-thin sheets of puff pastry for the orange blossom millefoglie.

Everyone knows their part, from the slick, cocktail-shaking bartenders to the unflustered floor staff – even if they seem, at times, only to stick to the script
(a little more warmth wouldn’t go astray). Still, a full house on a rainy midweek night proves this classy Italian steakhouse is no support act.