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Chef Matteo Zamboni’s aptitude for Italian fundamentals is clear. You’ll see it in the beef carpaccio, the meat ruddy and plush; in the al dente bite to the coin shaped corzetti pasta with pipis in a glossy, briny, chilli-flecked sauce.

What gives his dishes wings are the unanticipated zigs and zags – the blast of sesame oil in an entree of steamed celeriac, say, which tempers the sting of mustard seeds and nuanced sweetness of truffled honey and black garlic. Or the yuzu cream atop an otherwise orthodox pistachio semifreddo.

The more restrained and classically minded efforts hit just as hard – call for the mandarin-dressed duck breast teamed with endive and mizuna and see for yourself.

Reviving a storied site ain’t easy (47 Windsor once housed Lucio’s), but with confident service, a thoughtfully stocked cellar and refined cooking, Civico is more than up to the job.