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It used to be that when existing pub groups bought up old neighbourhood stalwarts the results would be formulaic at best, craven at worst. In would go the pokies, out would go the charm. That’s no longer the case – newer ownership companies are reviving historic pubs but keeping or bolstering their individuality.

It seems the Marquis of Lorne crew opens a new venue every month, without ever compromising on the formula that made that pub an icon – good food, good staff, good vibes. And now another beer-focused company has taken over a historic pub, aiming to return it to its glory days.

The Albion Hotel in Collingwood has had an interesting trajectory over its 170-odd-year history. Recently, it was one of the grungiest venues on Smith Street, and then, after a complete renovation to scrub away that grunge, spent some time as an events space under the name Perry’s.

Perry’s interior was an art deco botanical fantasy, but the newest owners – the duo behind Bodriggy Brewing – have lost that leafy vibe and leaned into traditional pub design, even installing tartan carpeting and painting the exterior an intense shade of mustard that brings to mind a 1970s corduroy sofa. The front bar is dominated by a central U-shaped bar; there’s also a small dining room off to the side that fronts the open kitchen and a beer garden out back.

The Albion is an interesting case study for the modern Melbourne pub.

So far, so classic. What’s not at all classic is the food. Chef Johnny Dominguez was born in Mexico and he brings that heritage to the Albion’s menu, as well as pulling from other Latin American cultures.

That means there’s pert green aguachile and crispy jalapeno on the fresh oysters ($36 for six), and instead of chips or chicken ribs you can get an arepa (cornmeal cake) with capsicum, mushrooms and confit garlic emulsion ($18).

Dominguez’s take on the ubiquitous kingfish crudo is a Peruvian preparation, a tiradito drenched in leche de tigre (the citrus-bright “tiger’s milk” marinade) with avocado and crispy corn ($26).

There are concessions to the needs of the average punter. My favourite dish on the menu is a mashup of a torta, a birria taco – traditionally served with a rich consume for dipping – and a French dip sandwich. Basically, it’s a beef brisket torta ($26) served on a soft white roll with birria broth on the side. It’s perfect pub food.

Dominguez is obviously quite ambitious with his menu, and though I can’t be sure, I think he’s sous-viding his market fish ($36) and possibly his scotch fillet ($48). The latter comes with lovely roasted buttered carrots and a thick chimichurri sauce. I wish he’d lighten up on the salt across the board – everything from those oysters to the arepa to the kingfish would shine much brighter if salt didn’t overwhelm them.

The beer list is, unsurprisingly, made up mostly of Bodriggy pours, and there’s a selection of wines on tap that go for between $50 and $55 a carafe.

The interest on this drinks list lies with the cocktails, which take their cues from the food and lean Latino. In its most fun form, that means a deeply coloured drink called the Purple Disco Machine ($23), a mix of rum, coconut, yam, guava, and amaretto.

The Albion is an interesting case study for the modern Melbourne pub. Its design is all vintage nostalgia, its ownership is a burgeoning bar group, its food is ambitious and international.

It’s all the things we’ve always loved about a pub, and a few things we didn’t know we needed until recently. I can’t wait to see what’s in store for the next 170 years.