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Besha Rodell

Chief restaurant critic

Besha Rodell is the anonymous chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

Greg Malouf at MoMo’s, the Melbourne basement restaurant where he was awarded two chefs’ hats.

Patient, kind and generous: Chef Greg Malouf’s enduring kitchen legacy

Before anyone had heard of Yotam Ottolenghi, this year’s Vittoria Coffee Legend Award winner was introducing Melburnians to Middle Eastern flavours.

  • Besha Rodell
Tzaki’s tiny kitchen produces pastries, coffee, wood-fired mezze and Greek-inspired cocktails.
14/20

Yarraville just became a whole lot cooler with this delicious slice of modern Greek dining

This all-day Greek cafe and no-bookings wine bar in Yarraville exudes cool. It helps, of course, that the food is fantastic.

  • Besha Rodell
Hacienda aims to remove itself from the taco crowd.
13.5/20

Is this new Mexican eatery the quality Southgate venue we’ve been waiting for?

Some of the food at this riverside restaurant left our critic giddy with excitement. But there were a few spills amid the thrills.

  • Besha Rodell
The glistening chicken ballotine is a stunning feat of technique and creativity.
14.5/20

Why did the critic cross the Carlton North road? To order this ‘utterly delicious’ chicken dish

An exciting Rathdowne Street newcomer Malin brings a freshness and exuberance that sets it apart from a crowded field.

  • Besha Rodell
Vue de monde restaurant manager Rajnor Soin has made personable service his mission.

Australia is leading the world in bringing joy and friendliness to fine dining

As we announce the Service Excellence Award finalists for this year’s Good Food Guide, Melbourne’s chief restaurant critic celebrates the death of pompous, robotic service.

  • Besha Rodell
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Corn tamale is a corn triple play, the ground nixtamalised corn dough steamed in corn husks blanketed by corn sauce.
14/20

Farewell, fusion tacos. This sunny CBD bar may be the start of Melbourne’s Latino age

The Mexican, Central and South American food scene here is stronger than ever. And this Little Collins Street newcomer delivers some of the best versions around.

  • Besha Rodell
Morels on toast at No. 7 in Healesville
Good Food hat15/20

This rare treat might be gone by the time you read this, but dinner will be no less delicious

Chef Joel Bowers is creating magic with fleeting seasonal ingredients at No.7.

  • Besha Rodell
The go-to dish: Oxtail lends heft to the spring roll filling.
12.5/20

Bang or a whimper? The verdict on Fitzroy’s much-hyped StandardX hotel’s restaurant

It has boho-glam looks and backing from a luxury international hotel chain. But does the street-level restaurant deliver the goods?

  • Besha Rodell
Asparagus prepared three ways is served with comte custard.
Good Food hat15/20

The modern wine cave offering sophisticated snacks and education by the glass

Laneway newcomer Circl is uncorking the good bottles, pairing them with dishes made by a chef with fine-dining credentials.

  • Besha Rodell
Sunlight streams through windows at Reed House.
Good Food hat15/20

‘Of all the recent restaurant openings in Melbourne, this feels the most exciting’

You know you’re in Melbourne when you’re welcomed into this lovely bluestone restaurant tucked behind a church.

  • Besha Rodell

Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/by/besha-rodell-h29n0x