Besha Rodell

Chief restaurant critic

Besha Rodell is the anonymous chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

The revival of this Brunswick Street landmark also raises the question: Why isn’t kangaroo schnitzel an Aussie staple?

Bar Spontana is one of those spots that feels like a secret, and a really juicy secret at that.

The Bossa Nova pitch sounds like a drunken late-night thought bubble. But it’s a welcome measure of weirdness for this great restaurant town.

The room, drinks and service are all great. But the umami-forward food leaves our critic feeling baffled.

The most memorable, soul-quenching single bite of food I’ve had in weeks was at modest shopfront diner El Columpio.

Always a place that showcases Melbourne dining, Etta has been reinvigorated by a new chef bringing Asian-influenced flavours to the fore.

Our city does this dining experience better than most places in the world, writes Besha Rodell.

It’s not all caviar-topped ice-cream sundaes and luxe seafood. The Chris Lucas-owned eatery has found its groove – and regained a hat in the process.

Hopper Joint, with its hands-on curry sets and short eats, is introducing the cuisine to a whole new audience.

Eleven-year-old Tulip looks casual, even unremarkable. But passionate new owners are helping it blossom.