'Jump steak' and 'Walking big bird' aren't to everyone's taste and there are certain flavours of the Great Southern Land that just don't belong on a plate. Eucalyptus, for instance, is best sampled in cough lollies. But this old stager has been serving up the coat of arms and sundry marsupials for a long time with great success. Restraint and respect for classical technique has a lot to do with it. Possum and pork rillettes team well with date and palm chutney that imposes a bracing sweetness on the muddy, earthy proteins that invites you to smear just a little more on your toast. It lacks only for the crunch of a textural contrast. The farmed emu fillet arrives looking nothing like a game bird, resembling venison and recalling calf's liver in the chocolate depths of its flavour. Served with a flourish of sweet corn puree and sugar snap pea salad, it is a perfectly executed dish, plated with attention to detail and real flair.