Oncore opened in Sydney in 2021, bringing a different approach to fine dining with it. A more detailed, finessed, and yes, more expensive approach, as befits the three-Michelin-star status of the London mothership, Clare Smyth’s Core. Now in its third year, Oncore offers the serious diner even more, with a new seasonal menu allowing head chef Alan Stuart to respond with more truffles in winter; more shellfish in summer. The Classics menu riffs on Smyth’s signatures, from the earthy yet delicate kombu-poached potato to the painterly, gel-skinned Core apple, and the sweeping views still stretch to the horizon. Meanwhile, our Sommelier of the Year Max Gurtler offers recommendations from a sweeping wine list. Oncore will never knowingly do less, instead of more. Even the constant de-crumbing of the leather-bound tables contributes to the sense of this being dining as live theatre.