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Contemporary

Buckwheat “gnocchi” with mushroom ragu.
Good Food hat15/20

‘An utter thrill’: Re’em − and its not-as-you-know-it gnocchi − shakes up the winery lunch

Most winery restaurants steer towards the cuisine of traditional wine-making countries. Not so at Helen and Joey Estate.

  • Dani Valent
Go-to dish: Coral trout and its parts.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Sydney has a new three-hat restaurant, and it’s in a former pub

Josh Niland’s tasting menu showcases the near-limitless potential of fish. But it’s not all livers and eyes and “oh, my!”

  • Callan Boys
Sails overlooks Lavender Bay, Luna Park, the bridge and beyond.
14.5/20

If you’ve ever searched ‘harbourside restaurants with a view’ this revamped diner will float your boat

Sails had recently had a major renovation, and now feels like a relaxed luxury weekender where you’ll want to linger.

  • Terry Durack
The space is compact and buzzy with a touch of glamour.

From breakfast to late-night lattes, this all-day eatery is a buzzy beachside spot

Makaveli Bondi’s footpath window bench is the perfect perch, day or night, to enjoy a chia bowl or a plate of silky beef carpaccio.

  • Lenny Ann Low
Bonito with palm heart and pomelo.
13/20

It has a new hotshot Sydney chef and great service. So why has this St Kilda stalwart lost its hat?

The room, drinks and service are all great. But the umami-forward food leaves our critic feeling baffled.

  • Besha Rodell
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Crisp-skinned red mullet on sauce Americaine with fregola.
Good Food hat15/20

‘Make a mess’: This beachside bolthole puts the fun into fine dining

Head chef Luke Churchill’s menu is simultaneously serious and playful, running from sultry little snacks to big-ticket, kick-up-your-heels items.

  • Terry Durack
The “killer” cauliflower dish.

Why this ‘killer’ charred cauliflower stopped our reviewer in her tracks

It didn’t look that different from a hundred other vegan offerings around town. Eating it was a different story.

  • Dani Valent
14.5/20

Coogee dining was a hard sell during winter. Until this beachside wine bar reinvented itself

A refreshed menu from experienced fine-dining chefs takes beachside bar Coogee Wine Room from popular local haunt to fully fledged restaurant.

  • Terry Durack
The go-to dish: Chilli oil parfait is a riot of bold flavours.
Good Food hat15/20

Lygon Street favourite gets a new chef, and a hot new ‘mind-bending’ chilli oil dessert

Always a place that showcases Melbourne dining, Etta has been reinvigorated by a new chef bringing Asian-influenced flavours to the fore.

  • Besha Rodell
Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Not just here to grill steaks: This ‘proper restaurant’ offers bells-and-whistles dining

With a new winter menu and head chef fresh from Oncore by Clare Smyth and Newtown’s Cafe Paci, Shell House has plenty of compelling reasons to visit.

  • Callan Boys

Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/topic/contemporary-lcc