Exposed brick walls, starched white linen, walls of photographs and Hellenic memorabilia and music evoke the homeland of Philhellene's owners and chefs, who are clearly devoted to authentic Greek cuisine. Just ask the friendly staff about the Cretan specialities and you'll have a friend for life. Food, like the welcoming atmosphere, comes in generous portions. A mezze platter piled high with house-made dips, soft dolmades and crisp cheese pastries is a good way to start. Seafood is near obligatory, with choices such as a thick slice of swordfish with a lemony skordalia and earthy beetroot salad or simple grilled octopus. But some of the most rewarding choices are the seasonal specials. things like a slow braise of kid, cooked to melting tenderness, and served with a pea and broad bean salad. Desserts play with time-honoured ideas. baked figs or quince with creamy halva ice-cream.