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‘Melbourne wine bar’ has become its own genre, but this decade-old spot breaks the mould

Push past the orthodoxies at Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty, where spirit infuses everything from the playlists to the legacy of cheesy, peppery dishes.

Dani Valent

Inside Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty.
1 / 7Inside Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty.Chris Hopkins
Potato dumplings.
2 / 7Potato dumplings.Chris Hopkins
Sugarloaf cabbage.
3 / 7Sugarloaf cabbage.Chris Hopkins
Root vegetable tart.
4 / 7Root vegetable tart.Chris Hopkins
Bar seating is available.
5 / 7Bar seating is available.Chris Hopkins
Flatbread with snail butter.
6 / 7Flatbread with snail butter.Chris Hopkins
Bavarian cream.
7 / 7Bavarian cream.Chris Hopkins

Contemporary$$

Do restaurants have souls? It’s a question I pondered during a recent meal at Bar Liberty. The nine-year-old wine bar isn’t personality-driven, in the sense that there’s an owner-patron you always see there, or a chef who made the food their own. You don’t go to Bar Liberty for a particular dish, or even a cuisine. You aren’t rolling up for certain wines. You go there for a feeling, to connect with something like a soul.

Of the four founders – Michael Bascetta, Banjo Harris Plane, Manu Potoi (all ex-Attica) and Casey Wall (an American chef who recently returned home after 15 years), only Potoi remains, now as sole owner. During the decade Bar Liberty has been pouring wine, making impeccable cocktails and serving share plates, “Melbourne wine bar” has become a genre, a semi-templated place for crudo, focaccia, fresh cheese and probably a signature martini.

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I’m up for it; you’ll find me in those places, loving the olives, mortadella and vermouth. But if you want to push past the orthodoxies, you could visit Bar Liberty. (Yes, and Embla, Carnation Canteen and a few others, of course. Don’t get mad.)

Bavarian cream.
Bavarian cream.Chris Hopkins

Zackary Furst, head chef since 2019, recently moved on to deepen his explorations of his Polish culinary heritage. He handed the baton to Douglas Hoxley, a Melbourne chef with experience at key restaurants including Cutler and Gimlet, and a year-long stint in London at nose-to-tail legend St John.

“It’s good when you go away to find yourself and you do find yourself,” Hoxley tells me on the phone. Although it’s the early days of his Bar Liberty custodianship, the signs are good. “Finding himself” means being able to mesh his ideas with Liberty staples, slowly stretching into the yonder.

Soft, oily, sourdough flatbread has long been served with vintage shears for snipping into morsels. Hoxley offers snail butter – garlicky, mildly meaty and delicious – as a spread, gently making the case the sustainable protein.

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Flatbread with snail butter.
Flatbread with snail butter.Chris Hopkins

An unwritten Liberty law means there must be a starchy, peppery, cheesy course. In Casey Wall’s day, it was bucatini cacio e pepe. Furst looked to Eastern Europe, making potato dumplings with a sauerkraut juice reduction. Hoxley has embraced the legacy, dressing springy, dimpled potato pucks with lemony pepper and pecorino sauce, adding crunch with tiny crisps of potato skin. You don’t need to know any backstory to be lost in the pleasure of eating them.

Sugarloaf cabbage is softened and burnt, smoky and punchy, creamy and textured; bonus loveliness comes from spring onion and kelp. A root-vegetable tart finds luxury in celeriac, brightness in sorrel, energy in kohlrabi. A flathead dish is a spin on buttery meuniere, jazzed with green pepper and anchored by Jerusalem artichokes, the fish brined, butterflied and cooked with keen skill. Dessert bavarois (kindly called Bavarian cream on the menu because “buv-wa” can be off-putting to pronounce) is soft-set and juiced with roasted rhubarb. A scattering of bee pollen brings an almost awkward complexity.

Bar seating is available.
Bar seating is available.Chris Hopkins

Meanwhile, manager Ludovic Beauchamp-Chatel leads a team of knowledgeable, amenable professionals who make edgy, lesser-known wines (all organic, mostly biodynamic) feel fun and safe. If drinking is rock climbing, they are there suggesting the next foothold and belaying in case you slip and fall.

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It’s a pleasure to be here, sitting at the bar, or in the backroom, or along the window facing Johnston Street, the hurriedly spray-painted and never updated Bar Liberty sign glowing like an endorsement of all the decisions that brought you to this moment.

Is it soul? Bar Liberty makes me think of great footy clubs, immortalising heroes on imaginary honour rolls, handing over traditions implicitly and explicitly. Spirit is steeped in everything from the timber to the playlists to the flavours and, of course, the customers who bring their own romance and energy, resulting in a sprightly institution full of meaning and delight.

Three more Fitzroy spots to try

El Columpio

The tacos are outstanding (I’m a huge fan of the cactus and mushroom ones especially), but when you’re wondering how to stay warm in winter, consider the pozole, a Mexican soup with white corn, chicken or pork, and fresh crunchy garnishes. It’s wholesome and sustaining any time of day.

52 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, elcolumpio.com

Crop

Frankie Cox’s Green-on has rebranded to Crop and expanded from Cremorne to Fitzroy. The build-your-own salad concept has carried over, and I love the Winter Miso option with sweet potato, red cabbage, green beans, seaweed crunch, rocket, barley and miso-ginger dressing – a lunch that will easily carry you through to dinner.

291 Smith Street, Fitzroy, cropkitchen.au

Maven by Morgan

When Morgan Hipworth was a teen, he launched doughnut brand Bistro Morgan. Now all grown up, he’s opened Maven, a modern Mediterranean restaurant that serves signature cocktails (such as the Split Decision with banana-infused rum and roasted peanut sherry). There are separate menus for vegans, halal diners, and anyone avoiding garlic and onion.

402 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, maven.melbourne

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Dani ValentDani Valent is a food writer and restaurant reviewer.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/melbourne-wine-bar-has-become-its-own-genre-but-this-decade-old-spot-breaks-the-mould-20250716-p5mfcs.html