From the gilt-edged Rosenthal Coral plates on crisp white tablecloths, the flickering candles, inlaid marble floor and the silk patterned chairs to the white-jacketed waiters delivering meals on trolleys, the art of fine dining is alive and well at Vanitas. The menu has its foot in Europe but also traverses the globe. Slow-cooked pork belly with a master stock is subtle, teamed with scampi and apple poached in calvados, while a lobster sausage is further enriched by its partners of creamed leek, gnocchi and a thin slice of braised pork cheek. For mains, a pan-seared john dory fillet is moist, complemented by Middle Eastern flavours of preserved lemons and sultanas, while the five-spiced roasted duck breast with miso sauce, carrot puree, crisp cubes of potato and green beans is rich and luxurious. Finish with a classic bread and butter pudding served with nutmeg ice-cream and armagnac custard. A new chef as we go to press might decide to bring his own influences to the menu.