With its pale stone-grey walls, archways and wood-fired oven, Ester could be described as Flintstones-hipster (Flintster?). The clean, pared-down design contrasts with the warmth and honesty of head chef Mat Lindsay's menu. Start with small plates: a steamed white bun topped with a rich, earthy blood sausage (one won't be enough) and roasted oysters with a horseradish vinaigrette kick. A long white bone, split through the centre, arrives with grilled house-baked bread, ideal for umami-rich marrow with XO sauce. A head of roasted cauliflower, meanwhile, proves brassica can be beautiful resting on almond cream, fresh mint and crushed almonds. Charred chicken wallows in an impossibly addictive garlic bread sauce. A three-milks dessert combines goat's milk dulce de leche, delicate cow's milk panna cotta and sharp sheep's milk yoghurt foam. Add an interesting, international wine list and you'll get what the fuss is about.

And … Try the bar where the full menu is also available.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Chippendale's hottest new hot spot.
Best bit Down-to-earth professional staff.
Worst bit Getting a table.