Eight years on, Neil Perry’s temple to the gods of produce is refusing to date. An expensive paean to the masculine swagger of the New York steakhouse, the fitout remains as fresh as the day it opened, while the food’s minimalist precision illustrates why Perry remains at the top of his game despite now having an empire to run. Steaks, dry-aged reverently in their glass cabinet, are a reliably stunning example of expert wood grilling, but the seafood rivals them for headline status. Sustainable Coorong mullet comes with a sunny Mediterranean dressing of confit cherry tomato, fresh basil and black olives, while seared abalone and bottarga collude with king brown mushrooms over the lushest maltagliati pasta. From the perfect simplicity of charry, pull-apart quail with smoked tomatoes and black olives to a power-lunch-closing passionfruit pavlova, Rockpool is a place where all facets – the mammoth menu, the food, the wine list and the service – sashay with supreme confidence.

And … A long sides list includes affordable luxuries such as onion rings and creamed corn with chipotle.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Super-luxe steakhouse.
Best bit The sterling produce. 
Worst bit Quality doesn’t come cheap.