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Between the approach along a vine-lined road and the sight of a comfy fireside couch as you enter, the tension nearly melts from your shoulders before you’ve even sat down at Hogget. The decision-free degustation does the rest.

You might strike gold in the form of a single Brussels sprout wrapped with tempura and drizzled in honey from Hogget’s own hives. Trembling cheese souffle comes with a creamed leek underbelly. Parsley-green pappardelle is slicked with sweet champagne and shallot sauce, and confit trout is pepped up by crushed kitchen garden peas and pearls of trout roe.

Gippsland rules the wine list (with good reason) and dietary preferences are handled flexibly. It’s almost like visiting a fabulous relative in the country, an illusion completed by the sculptural piles of pumpkins in front of the open kitchen, dreamy shelf of cookbooks and leather aprons hung on a wall.