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No matter how far from home you are you’ll feel part of the neighbourhood here, plonked in the middle of all the off-Lygon action.

Prefer to navigate the helpfully coded wine list at the bar? Sidle up and let charming staff steer. A bright Beaujolais gamay is expertly paired with pan-fried flathead; the fish marooned in prawn bisque with minuscule-yet-meaty prawns. A tin of creamy kingfish rillettes capped with salmon roe exists to be slathered on snap-thin toasted rye.

Broccoli salad is like a flavour pinata, the intensity of pickled radicchio, yuzu and sesame seeds soothed by soft, creamy eggplant. Grilled wagyu rump cap benefits from a smattering of melty marrow cubes and a side of grilled cos. Olive oil cake brings it all home, tucked under a lemon cream duvet.