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By restaurateur Chris Lucas (Society, Kisume, Chin Chin), Tombo Den is a a high-octane ode to Tokyo’s late-night dining scene, found on Chapel Street next to his longstanding Hawker Hall.

Karaage (Japanese fried chicken) is fried until gloriously golden, the frenched wings served in a pool of vivid red sauce starring yuzu kosho, a punchy paste made of yuzu peels and gochujang.

The fish of the day can be served simply as sashimi or nigiri (seafood on a pad of rice), or in a chef’s selection platter with the addition of crispy rice and maki rolls. You might find bluefin tuna from Bermagui, kingfish from the Spencer Gulf or Ora King salmon from NZ.

Go-to dishes: Chicken short wing, chilli kosho ($19.50 for three pieces); sweetcorn fritter, BBQ sauce ($13.50 for two pieces); daily fish market selection (from $9.50); roast pork belly, mustard greens ($48.50).