Chef Ehud Malka reckons he goes through about 20 kilograms of hummus a day – that’s the weight of a small child in chickpeas and tahini – but one swipe of warm, fluffy, house-made pita through this glorious dip and you might consider tackling that amount on your own. Get it with a swirl of tahini and a dusting of zaatar, or encircling crisp golden cauliflower, or underneath flame-licked lamb cutlets.

Elsewhere, there are plump diamond-shaped kibbeh that might deviate from the menu description but are a delight nonetheless, benefiting from a dunk in the accompanying spicy green zhoug sauce.

A giant eggplant schnitzel in a challah bun is designed to feed a crowd, while pita pockets stuffed with pickles and spiced chicken require two hands and your full attention.

The interior of the multi-room terrace is bare bones, but let’s face it: you’re here for the food, not the fitout.